A carnivore’s foursome

In the New Yorker, Bill Buford chronicles the comeback of carnivorous behavior after years of abuse at the hands of vegetarians, The American Heart Association and a public fearful of the messy truths of meat. He does so by discussing new books by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall (The River Cottage Meat Book), Martin Picard (Au Pied de Cochon – The Album) and Stephane Reynaud (Pork & Sons). It’s a thoughtful review of a subject demanding some thought, but I do believe he’s left out one more cookbook author who belongs here: Fergus Henderson of St. John in London. Henderson’s two books, Nose to Tail Eating (in America The Whole Beast), and Beyond Nose to Tail, are pure celebrations of meat, with other food stuffs along for the glorious ride. Henderson’s recipe writing is lyrical, with very simple recipes getting the same carefully crafted descriptions as the challenging and difficult ones. His respect for the meat, a theme in all of these authors’ works, is expressed in the care he takes with his words.

Leave a Reply