Archive for the ‘recipes’ Category

green coriander

Saturday, July 28th, 2012

When the plant has gone to seed, because cilantro always bolts and goes to seed, there is one more use for it before it dries into those delicious little orbs. Our friend Peter Smith turned us on to green coriander last year, and now I wait eagerly for the pods to appear. The flavor is, as one expects, half way between the grassy greenness of cilantro and the sweet spiciness of dried coriander. Last night I sauteed six ears of fresh Maine corn kernels with a green pepper, a sliced Vidalia onion and a handful of the green coriander pods that I had crushed with the flat of my knife. Lovely. If you have a garden and you grow cilantro I bet you’ve got these little beauties waiting for you out there, go check it out!  They pop right off the stems with little resistance. We’ve also crushed them into a vinaigrette, but I was thinking this morning that would make a great compound butter, maybe with a little minced shallot. Spread on a piece of grilled fish or chicken. Ooooh. Coriander has become one of my go-to dried herbs along with whole cumin seed.  I grind the two in my mortar and pestle and then sprinkle over chopped cauliflower on a sheet tray with some olive oil, s&p and chopped garlic.  Into a 400 degree oven until the cauliflower crisps up. Fab.


What’s in your garden?

dough nut day, 1836

Friday, June 1st, 2012


National Doughnut Day was created by Congress after successful lobbying on the part of Adolph Levitt, Chairman of the Doughnut Corporation of America. But doughnuts have been with us a long while. Here’s a recipe from  Mary Randolph’s Virginia Housewife (an 1836 printing). It’s an important book, the first regional American cookbook, and to some, the “most influential American cookbook” [Karen Hess]. Mary Randolph did include recipes from beyond Virginia and the South, like this one, for Dough Nuts, or Yankee Cakes.



Monday, March 26th, 2012

Blood Orange syrup.  I loves me some bubbly water but do not appreciate the over sweetness of most commercially made sodas.  We have one of those home soda system available these days, with a charged canister that delivers the bubbles.  I have been squeezing citrus into my glass but it tends to be more watered down that I desire.  So I decided to make myself some syrup.  Basically it’s zest, juice, sugar and a little water reduced on the stove by about half. The juice/water sugar proportions are about 2:1 liquid to dry.   A good tablespoon or so gives me a delicious soda with just the right blend of bubbles and tang. Ah, refreshment!

John Dory

Monday, March 19th, 2012

Last nights dinner was a foil roasted John Dory bought from Harbor Fish, one of our all time favorite seafood purveyors.  Have you been there?  If you live in Portland, Maine, it is probably on your circuit.  Even if you are a summer visitor to Maine, you have been to Harbor Fish.  If not, add it to your itinerary.

I had a craving for some fish on Saturday, but only after the possibility for securing such raw ingredients was past.  Sunday morning after yoga I drove over to Custom House wharf.  Arriving at Harbor Fish at 10:30 on a Sunday morning was a new experience for me.  The place was empty, I had it all to myself.  And what an array of choices to be had.  Taking my sweet time, I surveyed all offerings and decided on the whole John Dory which they gutted for me. It is an ugly fish no doubt, spiny and flat with an enormous mouth. But man, was it delicious.

We buttered a big piece of tin foil, lay the fish on it with a couple cloves of garlic, some slices of lemon, salt/pepper, a sprig or two of thyme and a generous lashing of vermouth. In the oven at 375 degrees for about 20 minutes.  Served with some sauteed spinach and eggplant (a vegetable drawer combo if ever there was one) and whole wheat cous cous to soak up the juices form the fish.  Oh my….

I do love living somewhere where this kind of raw ingredient is so fresh, tasty and readily available.